Almost Italian

ike a wind from the steppes, this dish swept through Manhattan in the early 1970’s. Every trattoria and ristorante from Mulberry Street to the Upper East Side rushed to feature a version on the menu. Maitre d’s everywhere were preparing Penne alla Vodka table-side as they made a grand show of igniting vodka in sauté pans.

Around the same time, vodka distillers tried to launch Penne alla Vodka in Italy itself, with lavish media events in fashionable locations in Rome. Despite the hoopla, the dish never gained more than a toehold in Italy, while here in America, it was immediately popular and remains so today, appearing on the menus of neighborhood Italian restaurants no matter where you go. Penne alla Vodka, like a rerun of Anita Ekberg bathing in the Trevi Fountain, is an ever-refreshing expression of la dolce vita.

While Italians have never been major consumers of vodka, and rarely cook with it, we have found a clue to the origins of Penne alla Vodka. The classic Italian Pasta al Limone, Pasta with Lemon, is sauced with both juice and zest of lemon, cream, and a shot of grappa (a colorless spirit made from distilled grape must). The more assertive flavor and higher price of grappa may well have inspired someone to use milder, cheaper vodka—a spirit more widely available in America than grappa. Indeed, 0ur research has turned up many modern Pasta al Limone recipes which call for vodka without even mentioning it as a substitute for grappa.

There are two important things to note about Pasta alla Vodka, and they provide a clear illustration of how a dish becomes part of a “tradition.” The subtle inclusion of vodka (popularly associated with climes far colder than Lombardia and Alto Adige) and the use of cream (which tones down the marinara sauce’ s acidity and—and perhaps more importantly—lightens the color of the sauce) meant that 1970’s “red-sauce” restaurants seeking to present refined, upscale dishes could offer a new one, the “Almost Northern Italian,” Pasta alla Vodka.

The 70’s urge to flambée was irresistible, and many diners assumed that pyrotechnics were crucial to the taste of the finished pasta. Rest assured, they are not. Even if no one lights a match, the alcohol burns off. There is no need to flambée the vodka and this dish can be safely enjoyed by those under legal drinking age.

If you happen to have a little marinara sauce on hand, Penne alla Vodka goes from stove-top to table very quickly.

Penne alla Vodka

Ingredients:

1 Lb. Penne
2 Cloves garlic, finely sliced
2 Tbs. Unsalted butter
2 Cups marinara sauce (your Nonna’s or mine) *
1/2 Cup unflavored vodka
1/2 tsp. Crushed red pepper flakes
Salt & freshly ground black pepper
1/2 Cup heavy cream
4 Tbs. Flat-leaf Italian parsley, finely chopped

Preparation:

Place a large pot of water (at least 6 quarts) over high heat and bring to the boil.

Meanwhile, heat a sauté pan over medium heat and add the olive oil. Add the garlic and cook for about 2 minutes, until soft, but not browned. Add the marinara sauce and the vodka.

Raise the heat until sauce is bubbling gently. Stir and cook for 3 minutes to evaporate the alcohol. Add the red pepper flakes and taste for seasoning. Add salt and pepper as necessary.

Add the penne to the boiling water, and while it is cooking, add the cream to the tomato sauce and simmer 2 or 3 minutes. Drain the pasta well, toss with the sauce.

To Serve:

Divide equally among four plates, and garnish with the parsley.

Serves four.

* Link to the recipe for my grandmother’s marinara sauce.