Almost Italian

In the late 1970′s and early 1980′s Italian-American restaurants rose in prominence as second generation Italian-Americans and newly arrived Italian chefs began to expand the boundaries of “northern Italian” cuisine. With uptown Manhattan as the epicenter of all things fashionably Italian—most notably dining venues and luxury apparel—restaurateurs like Sirio Maccione, Pino Luongo, and Tony May offered receptive diners a new, “lighter” version of Italian cooking.

The same period saw an increased interest in home cooking, nurtured by Italian cookbook writers like Marcella Hazan, Giuliano Bugialli, and Franco and Margaret Romagnoli. Red sauce and olive oil were never exiled, but North American ideas about “Italian” food now included cream, butter, and mascarpone. The culinary contrast between New York’s Little Italy and the Upper East Side was as dramatic as the difference between a meal in Palermo and one in Milan.

The truth was that many of the “new” northern dishes were far richer—in terms of fat and calories—than their southern counterparts. But, in the absence of puddles of tomato sauce, they certainly looked lighter on the plate, and the flavors seemed more delicate and distinct. This was food for the “ladies who lunch.” A little risotto alla Milanese or pasta alle vongole (with white clam sauce) proved to be the perfect pick-me up after lugging shopping bags between Gucci, Versace, and Ferragamo.

With his Smoked Salmon Pizza, Austrian-born Wolfgang Puck was one of the first North American chefs to use smoked salmon in an Italian context. That pizza became the signature dish at Spago, his iconic Los Angeles restaurant.

Meanwhile, back in New York, smoked salmon followed a different trajectory. In combination with Cognac and heavy cream, Tagliatelle al Salmone Affumicato, pasta with smoked salmon, found a place on menus in tonier white-tablecloth establishments. The appropriation of a non-Italian luxury ingredient handled in a Italian manner makes this dish a good example of what we call “third wave” Italian-American food. It also prompted Moira Hodgson of the New York Times to write an article titled, “Is There a New Italian Cuisine?” in September, 1981.

Italian food has been here for over a century. Mom’s Sunday Gravy gradually gave way to Ziti with Chicken & Broccoli and Chicken Caesar Salad. Now after the turn of another century, we have dishes that, while they use Italian components such as egg pasta, exemplify American inventiveness and our access to a global pantry. That a preparation like this has migrated from North America to Italy itself is testimony to its essence—a few high-quality ingredients, carefully seasoned to create a dish of subtle seduction. Now THAT’s Italian…

Ingredients:

1 Lb. Tagliatelle (or Fettucine)
2 Tbs. Unsalted butter
1 Small shallot, finely diced
2 Tbs. Cognac
1/2 Cup smoked salmon roughly chopped
1/2 Cup heavy cream
Zest of 1/2 lemon, grated
Salt and freshly-ground black pepper
4 Tbs. Flat-leaf Italian parsley, finely chopped

Preparation:

Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil. Add the pasta, and cook until it has reached the al dente state.

Meanwhile, heat a sauté pan over medium heat, then add the butter. When the butter has begun to foam, add the shallot and sauté until it has wilted, about three minutes.

Raise the heat to high and add the Cognac. Boil for a minute or two to evaporate the alcohol, then lower the heat to medium-low. Add the salmon, the cream, and the lemon zest. Season with salt and pepper as necessary. Remove from the heat and set aside.

When the pasta is done, drain in a colander and pour into a large bowl. Add the sauce to the pasta and toss to combine.

To Serve:

Divide the pasta equally among four plates and garnish with the chopped parsley.