Cafe Baci, Sarasota, FL.

Tonight, many of you will be celebrating La Cena della Vigilia di Natale—the Feast of the Seven Fishes. And even if not, we hope you’ll all be together with loved ones.

My family didn’t observe the tradition, probably because they were rare birds in our community of Sicilian-Americans—Methodists. When it came to religious observance, minimalism was the guiding principle. This is not to say we didn’t feast, and I hasten to add that my grandparents never lost sleep over the separation of Church and Kitchen. As a child, I could look forward to Christmas Eve treats like Schiacciatta, Baccalà, and Casatta alla Siciliana. But we were under no obligation to abstain from meat, or to attend mass of any kind, let alone at midnight.

So research on the folkloric, and possibly non-Christian, origins of the Feast has been fascinating for a non-Catholic like me. What’s remarkable is how little anyone actually knows about it. One thing is clear: the number seven has held mystical significance for millennia—even before the birth of Judaism, Christianity, and Islam.

Some say the fish represent the seven sacraments of the Catholic Church. Others say it’s the seven Christian virtues, the Seven Deadly Sins, the Seven Sorrows of Mary. Others cite the Seven Hills of Rome (although most would concur that few modern Romans observe la vigilia). I’ve even seen reference to the Seven Sleepers of Ephesus in Asia Minor…

There are those, like my editor, who detect more than a whiff of Saturnalia, the Pagan celebration of the winter solstice, and note similarities to folkloric traditions persistent among Muslims. (Remember that under Arab rule, Sicily’s cuisine gained ingredients and techniques that make even its contemporary food more reminiscent of North African Muslim kitchens than those of Calabria.)

Other numerals—9, 11, 13—carry additional meanings for Christians and those of other faiths. Indeed, depending on the individual family and the means and skills of its cooks, the vigilia table often includes seafood and fish dishes in those numbers, too.

Given the abbondanza Italians were able to enjoy here in America, it’s no surprise that they would demonstrate their gratitude and generosity and continue, through the decades, to add contemporary dishes to their family menus. Certainly baccalà, calamare, and eel are unshakable mainstays for traditionalists, but clams casino, shrimp cocktail, and sushi have taken their places on Italian-American Christmas Eve tables, too.

Whatever you do to celebrate this wonderful time of year, we wish you Auguri!.

Skip & Holly

P.S. We’d love to hear what’s on your Christmas Eve menu. Please leave a comment if you’d like.