Almost Italian

There’s nothing “almost” about Pasta con Broccoli; it really is Italian, long enjoyed in homes throughout southern Italy.

But here, in America, the combination Pasta con Broccoli e Pollo became popular in the 1970′s–just when Italian-American chefs were beginning to delve into northern Italian cuisines. With the addition of sautéed chicken breasts, Chicken Ziti Broccoli (as it came to be known) was an example of an Italian dish prepared without tomato sauce, and thus, it passed muster for inclusion on “Northern” Italian-American menus.

Today, neighborhood Italian restaurants serve Pasta with Broccoli—along with chicken, hickory-smoked chicken, turkey, Rock Cornish game hen, and even mesquite-grilled chicken.

Fusion notwithstanding, it’s pretty good stuff; and I have to admit, it’s a delicious interpretation of a southern Italian stand-by. The following recipe includes all the flavor notes of the Italian original, adjusted for the inclusion of the ultimate American convenience protein: boneless, skinless chicken breasts. Even with garlic, this dish is subtle. In pairings like this, you’ll be rewarded for using the best ingredients, because, without a long-simmered sauce, each ingredient must stand on its own.

Americans are used to seeing supermarket broccoli year ’round. However, it’s a crop that likes cool, though not freezing, weather. Depending on where it’s grown, American broccoli is at its best between September and late May.

Ingredients:

2 Skinless, boneless chicken breasts (approximately 1 Lb., trimmed of any fat)
Salt & freshly ground black pepper
1 Head broccoli (approximately 1 1/4 Lbs.) cut into florets, stems peeled and cut into 1 in. chunks
Salt & freshly ground black pepper
1 Lb. Ziti or Penne
2 Tbs. Extra virgin olive oil
2 Cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
2 Tbs. Capers, rinsed and drained—or 1/4 Tsp. freshly grated nutmeg (see Note)
1/2 tsp. Red pepper flakes
Grated rind of 1/2 lemon
4 Tbs. Flat-leaf Italian parsley chopped
Additional olive oil
Freshly grated Parmesan

Preparation:

Cut the breasts in half, then lengthwise into strips about 1 in. wide. Season the strips with salt and pepper.

Bring at least 6 quarts of salted water to a boil, then add the broccoli pieces. Cook for approximately 3 minutes. Scoop out the broccoli with a slotted spoon or small strainer and drain, reserving the cooking liquid.

Bring the reserved cooking liquid back to a boil, then add the pasta. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the pasta has reached the al dente state. Drain in a colander, reserving approximately 1 cup of the cooking liquid.

Heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, then add the oil. Add the chicken breasts, and cook, stirring, for 2 — 3 minutes, or until the pieces begin to turn white at the edges. Add the garlic; stir and cook briefly, perhaps another minute. Don’t let the garlic brown. Add the pepperoncino flakes and capers. Stir over heat for 1 minute.

Add the broccoli, lemon rind, and pasta to the pan; season with salt and pepper. Reduce the heat to medium-low; add the parsley and toss well to combine. Cook the mixture for 1 — 2 minutes. Add a few tablespoons of the pasta-cooking water, if needed.

Off the heat, drizzle with additional olive oil.

To Serve:

Divide the mixture equally among four dinner plates and serve with the Parmesan passed separately.

Serves four.